Gosha Rubchinskiy talks through his latest capsule collection, alongside exclusive lookbook out-takes
This month sees the launch of Gosha Rubchinskiy's new capsule collection for Dover Street Market: a collaboration with and tribute to Russian Neo-Academist artist Timur Novikov. Renowned for his recalibration of Soviet-era fashion, turning distinctly eighties acrylic sportswear into pieces that are simultaneously ironic and legitimately appealing, Rubchinskiy's latest offering is a nostalgic look at one of Russia's greatest artists but with a distinctly contemporary feel. Here, we spoke to him about what it is about Novikov that inspires him, why he chose to shoot the images himself and what it is about Moscow's ping-pong scene that inspires – alongside exclusive outtakes from the lookbook...
On Timur Novikov…
“To me, he is the most interesting person from the 80s Soviet art generation, and he used to work for covers and stage art with my favourite rock and punk bands from Leningrad's underground. I like his work and vision. I met him for the first time in 2000 at an exhibition of Victor Tsoy's art works when I was a teenager at my first school trip to St. Petersburg. He was already ill and died soon after in 2002. Later I learned more about his art and conceptions, and I think his energy suits very well what I do. That’s why I chose his works for this collaboration. I have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it can be possible; I met his daughter Maria and we talked about the project. She really liked the idea and we went for it!"
On Soviet Youth Cuture…
"I like the energy of youth. Young people always try to find their own new and original ways and I think it is the same all around the world. I don't think there is a specific Soviet Youth, I don't like that cliché.
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On 80s Russia versus 2015…
“Now it is a completely different situation in Russia. The political climate has really changed, especially with the Internet era – but the 80s Soviet underground art and music scenes are still very interesting for my teenager friends from Moscow. I think it is because they try to find something strong and true. And back then there was a lot of that!"
On casting…
"I met one of the boys through Instagram and we became friends. The other boy lives close to my apartment and I met him around the corner. They are very real and it is what I want to show for this collection. Both are skaters. We listened together to some rare punk bands, they are really in synch with the energy of Timur Novikov's time too.
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On shooting the lookbook…
"I like to control and be responsible for all parts of the brand's image; it is very important and personal for me. As usual, I shot the lookbook by myself. The location is a very hype Ping-Pong area called 'WIN-WIN' in the woods close to Gorky Park. All of Moscow's young cool people spend their summer nights there – listening to music, drinking beer and playing Ping-Pong."
