Day three of London fashion week brought three collections of mishmash and collaged prints, fabrics and proportions. At Peter Pilotto stylist Karen Langley layered up the collection’s twisted garments and clashing prints – which included the 3D printing technique of last season – to create a looser, more austere and masculine silhouette. Inspired by political unrest, the design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos brought a muted palette of greys, white, rust, navy, brick and black (with the exception of one acid yellow satin dress), making way for a tougher and slightly punkish aesthetic. At Michael van der Ham twisting also made a feature in the collection's rich jewel coloured, crushed-velvet dresses that opened the show. On from this the Dutchman continued with his signature fabric collage juxtaposing Lurex intarsia knits with a gold cabbage floral and pairing jacquard fringed trousers and skirts with tailored jackets and unusually cut tops. Designer Clare Waight Keller of Pringle of Scotland put together an equally eclectic array of materials inspired by the Pringle Archive Project. Paying reference to house's rich history Keller cut and collaged heritage fabrics – including their renowned Fair Isle, tweed and knits – creating a mixture of textures and shapes to the most intriguing result. Particular favourites came in the tweed/leather capelet which was fully reversible – perhaps reinforcing the collection's modern take on old time classics, something Keller does best.
Text by Lucia Davies
