London Menswear Round-up

Showing under the MAN umbrella, Martine Rose showed a striking selection of gold brocade looks worn over crisp, classic shirting, and cleverly added much-needed 'edge' with bomber jackets, cargo pants and heavy multi-coloured Cat boots. New Power Studio designer Thom Murphy looked at the traditional Roman Catholic carnival, which marks the beginning of Lent. It is a time of excesses, where costumes are worn and rites are performed, a feast of wild abandon prior to the commitment of fasting. The hints to this custom, a penis shaped hat, breast-like shells dangling from a belt, and suffocating masks covering the faces did not distract too much from the actual clothes, which came in roomy proportions, giving way to the movements of the body. A tracksuit in emerald velvet gave a splotch of colour and a layered all-black look showed some elegance within the sporty collection, which was aptly named ‘the last dance’. But Mr Murphy is not easy to put in a nutshell altogether. "I started to think about homosexuality and the church, not in the controversial way it is normally perceived; more to look for ways how gay men can address god as well, which is quite a commitment" he confided. "A lot is the opposite of isolation, especially for the boys. It’s a really English thing, all this hoodie, tough dog culture is about fear, to become isolated and violent. I wanted to soften that down a bit."

The theme of the James Long show was even darker. Set on a backdrop of endless, relentless night, his signature knits came in no shrill colours this season; blueish grey, dark velvets and black were dominating. Following the Mohair trend for next winter, Mr Long worked the longhaired fabric into a chequered overcoat with a semi-dropped shoulder, a sign that nothing really is what it appears to be.

If there is a trend for next season in London menswear, it is being proud to work with traditional British manufacturers. We know that from the suit brands in the West End, but not necessarily from the hip kids in Shoreditch. It is now, however, that even Carrie Mundane from Cassette Playa states ‘to be proud to be British’ in her programme notes and collaborates with the UK based heritage brand Lavenham. Classic shapes are ‘transformed by ornate digital print and flesh eating hues’. Ms Mundane also works on a special graphic project with the knitwear specialists from Sibling, who enriched their own presentation with a film about the lads going to the pub. William Richard Green collaborates with the classic English footwear company Underground and heavily promotes the use of English, Irish, and Scottish materials. The inspiration for his concise collection drew on Viking heritage and their armour based attire. It came through in the ill fitted drop crotch trousers, but rubberised jackets and silken boiler suits took that influence on a more modern and cosmopolitan level. Sebastien Tarek takes the tradition of bespoke shoemaking away from the old fashioned brogue and applies it to contemporary styles like a patent desert boot. He counts on local know-how too and sources his leathers from one of the few oak bark tanners left.

Text by George Ghon