"This was a real fashion moment" or so went the buzz after Haider Ackermann’s show when press went backstage to congratulate the Belgian designer on his...
"This was a real fashion moment" or so went the buzz after Haider Ackermann’s show when press went backstage to congratulate the Belgian designer on his standout collection. The pace built up slowly, first with black looks appearing in silence and only later introduced sombre colours like burgundy and moss green to a stomping soundtrack. "I wanted to have more masculine attitude" the designer said "a bit more discreet and not so much out there like last season". Wide belts tightened around the waist or even fastened across the bust held the elaborate outfits in check and did not let them become overly manicured or super polished. On the other hand, there was the fluidity of silks and girly bits like pink sequins sewn onto cut out skirts in different sizes, which made them look like an undulating field of crushed crystals. "It’s all about contradictions" was Mr. Ackermann’s fitting resumé on this performance, which should make him a hot ticket in the current race for top positions at the big Parisian houses.
Undeniably, there is a trend toward masculinity and straight silhouettes coming up for next winter. In a key look at Viktor & Rolf, the model Karlie Kloss was wearing a long black coat, collar straight up, over a gender defying jumpsuit that she wore with the right attitude of an emancipated women.
Also at Cacharel, the designer Cédric Charlier opted for a slim, lean shape. Floral prints became a dominant motif on the layered looks, but they were devoid of colours, just occasionally a flash of orange or gentle violet encroached into the organic surfaces.
Text by George Ghon
