We break down the multi-layered collection of Phoebe English, designed in collaboration with illustrator Helen Bullock
Phoebe English has always toyed with the darker side of things. For S/S15, her collection pushes new boundaries in its exploration of form and fabric, transforming the basement of Somerset House into a sinister otherworldly grotto of ethereal silhouettes, against a backdrop of glass jars and white steps with a strong focus on circles. "I like the ritualistic aspect of circles," explains English. "We used circular stairs that my mother designed for a feminist theatre group called Burnt Bridges, which my dad made for her. Having the circular stairs within the circular space highlighted the theme of doubles and repetition running throughout the collection."
Styled by Another Man fashion editor Ellie Grace Cumming, shirts were layered on top of shirts, dresses beneath dresses, as English toyed with proportion, weight and silhouette in muslin, net and heavy cotton. Illustrated impasto prints designed in collaboration with illustrator Helen Bullock cropped up throughout the otherwise monochromatic collection of dresses, shirts and wide-net grid tops. “It was such an interesting journey as I have not worked with prints in a collection before. I love the wild energy that they bring to the intricate layering of the clothes."
"I love the wild energy that Helen's illustrations bring to the intricate layering of the clothes" — Phoebe English
A little bit Margiela, a little bit Annette Messager, the collection also incorporates guipure d'art — an ancient lace method using embroidered motifs, held together by large stitches. Signature Phoebe was very much there: ragged edges, transparency, repetition and a nod to upholstery, but most importantly a sense of delicate fragility that makes light of dark matter. The collection will also feature in a special Dover Street Market window display this week as part of the DSM 10th birthday birthday celebrations.
Text by Mhairi Graham
