The week in New York was quietly encouraging. An overall trend appeared to be forming from a 1940’s America post-Depression sense of austerity and advancement of craft. Not to confuse austerity with mourning or sacrifice, but as a refined and modest
The week in New York was quietly encouraging. An overall trend appeared to be forming from a 1940s America post-Depression sense of austerity and advancement of craft. Not to confuse austerity with mourning or sacrifice, but as a refined and modest empowerment with a quality over quantity mentality. It’s been said by more than one designer that Diana Vreelend inspired many of these fall collections; an editor of that era who was iconic in her unfaltering and elevating sense of style as well as her regard for history. Long, clean and lean silhouettes reigned supreme in simplicity; full-length layers took on an almost column-like quality of varying proportion and texture while strict cuts economised movement to make efficient use of energy. Lace, laser-like cutouts, and slit details allowed sex into rigid outfits by suggesting to the viewer what waits underneath, if only in small doses. Envision the sleek rationed look as a pixilated image, constructed into a whole picture by the eye partly with logic and partly with imagination. It’s this sense of mystery and subverted sensuality that makes New York’s autumn/winter 2011 look so interesting; subtle references to luxury or frivolity that are championed by a utilitarian action and duty; a duality of protection and provocation. It was interesting to see traditional codes of wealth like fur treated as accents and sometimes afterthoughts by way of a mink lined shoe or collar, perhaps a swath or odd patch on the back of a jacket. Does this mean that reverence is being directed towards brain over brawn?
Highlights from the week include Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Preen, Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein Men’s Collection and Patrik Ervell. Parties, the quantity portion of a quality week, were splendidly abundant, but perhaps none more exemplary than the VMAN party hosted by Kanye West at the Mondrian Hotel where money exploded out of the ceiling and rained all over its delighted guests. If not exactly subtle, the sentiments there reflect an attitude of optimism that is apparent in the confident collections of the season.
Text by Paul Wagenblast
Paul Wagenblast is a freelance stylist and editor living in New York City
