Closing New York Fashion Week, Jacobs proved himself the perennial showman. Here’s what you need to know
1. Jacobs wanted the show to be intimate
“A smaller collection, but everything is very, very considered. A lot of beauty and joy... in our way,” said Jacobs of the collection, shown at New York’s Park Avenue Armory yesterday evening at the close of NYFW. Despite the vast proportions of the space, the setting was intimate: just 180 stools, in three rows, lined a laquered black-tiled runway. In an almost entirely dark space, the slow procession of models – in 40 looks, opposed to his usual 60 – was lit only by spotlights and accompanied by the American Contemporary Music Ensemble.
2. Our latest cover stars walked
Yesterday, we revealed cover number two of AnOther Magazine S/S19, starring Rianne van Rompaey in Burberry, photographed by Theo Sian and styled by Max Pearmain (see the full story here). Last night, the Dutch model walked in Jacobs’ A/W19 show in a sequin cape with a spray of feathers around the collar. She was joined by cover star number three, Anok Yai – shot for the issue by Craig McDean, styled by Katie Shillingford – in a striped gown with ruffled polka-dot sleeves. The rest of the line-up was typically memorable – Kaia Gerber, Adut Akech and Gigi Hadid walked alongside catwalk veterans Guinevere van Seenus, Karlie Kloss and Lindsey Wixson. 90s super Christy Turlington, resplendent in feathers, closed the show.
3. The collection had a haute couture sensibility
“It’s a fallen angel kind of beauty... but still an angel,” said Jacobs of the collection, which recalled the opulence of Parisian haute couture. Not least in the detailing: sprays of hand-painted feathers, shimmering pailette sequins and organza petals decorated increasingly rich fabrications, from double-duchesse satin to layer upon layer of tulle. So too the generous proportions, whether floor-length cashmere capes or vast layered trapeze gowns. Other pieces recalled Jacobs’ own greatest hits: whether pussy-bow blouses, Prince of Wales-checked trouser suits or frilly cocktail gowns he has referenced and re-referenced throughout his career. “A lot of beauty and joy... in our way,” Jacobs surmised.
4. The beauty look was minimal
Jacobs and make-up artist Diane Kendal – using the designer’s eponymous beauty line – said they wanted the beauty look to highlight the individual natural appearance of each model. Accordingly, Kendal stripped things back, spotlighting each model’s skin tone with a barely-there look punctuated simply with a black lash or lashline. “Diane Kendal created an authentic beauty look where skin is the star,” Jacobs said on Instagram.
5. Stephen Jones’ hats saw grunge meet glamour
The milliner – who recently answered 50 questions for AnOther – added the final touch to several of the looks. Jones began this season with a simple beanie hat, like those from Jacobs’ notorious S/S93 ‘Grunge’ collection for Perry Ellis (which the designer recently re-issued), to which he added various feather embellishments. Those models without hats saw hairstylist Guido Palau echo Kendal’s restrained beauty look, simply parting the hair and holding it in place with a bobby pin.